Link times are the worst part but solveable with mold[1]/sold. Incremental compilations are usually an order of magnitude (or even two) faster than clean compiles but tbh that can still feel slow. Helped by using something like sccache[2] or even cranelift[3] when debugging. Still not as fast as having a hot-reloadable language but it gets you to a relatively pleasant speed still IME
I've never been successful in getting sccache to really speed up projects, but then again only release builds have _really_ been impossible for me, and that's only when I was working on Deno which was absolutely massive.
[1] https://github.com/rui314/mold [2] https://github.com/mozilla/sccache [3] https://github.com/rust-lang/rustc_codegen_cranelift