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> the only way to protect an apple from that fate, would be to trademark the name, and the rightsholder only licenses the name to apples from cultivars that breed for taste and don't sacrifice taste for looks

You may want to look at the European D.O.C./A.O.C./E.T.C. system. Some specify production methods. Others set testable thresholds for the final product. Either ruleset could be incorporated into a licensing scheme.



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