I had a very similar experience at that same time in Laos. Waiting days to be able to cross the Mekong. Exchanging money for local currency resulted in obscene piles of cash that made me feel like a bank robber. "The bus" was an ancient truck with wooden slat seats in the back and stopped for everyone and everything - animals, welding kit, more people. There were no paved roads, most villages had no power after dark so it was candle light, playing card and conversation for entertainment. I remember when I decided to leave it took days to get to Luang Prabang. Everything felt sort of adventurous and rewarding. I was glad I got to experience it. Aside from a couple places I have rarely experienced that level of buzz from traveling since then.